How I Mounted a Switch on the Factory A-Pillar

I won a Seward Twin-6 light bar while attending the Ride for the M.U.L.E Matanzas Jeep Club event. The light bar was donated by Mike from Over The Top Offroad and Fab in Jacksonville, FL. Two switches were included. One sticky mount and one push-in switch. I was uncomfortable installing the push-in switch because I wasn’t sure where it should go. Fortunately I was able to meet Mike at the MJC Milkshake Meetup. Very nice guy.

Mike explained the push-in switch was designed to be mounted in the factory A-pillar. He made it sound so simple that I decided to give it a try. Here’s the steps I took to swap out my on-dash to a push-in switch.

Picture of on-dash switch

Tools Needed:

  • T20 Torx Screwdriver
  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Drill
  • 3/4″ Drill Bit
  • Wire Crimp Terminals
  • Electrical Tape

Step 1:

I had already wired my lights, so the first step for me was to remove the fuse from the positive line of the light bar. I really didn’t want to have a wire accidentally short out while I was messing around.

Step 2:

Use a T20 Torx Screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the driver side visor in place.

Picture of T20 Torx Screws Holding Visor in Place

Picture of visor removed


Step 3:

There is what looks like a screw on the A-pillar. This is a plastic screw that mushrooms out a clip to hold the A-pillar in place. You need to remove the screw and the spacer.

Picture of retaining screw in a-pillar

Step 4:

Lower the upper portion of A-pillar. There is a barbed white insert in the roll bar. You’ll need to gently slide this out.

Picture of barbed white insert.

Step 5:

My Rubicon has the UConnect system with bluetooth hands-free. This mic is mounted in the upper A-pillar. You’ll need to disconnect the mic before you can remove the upper portion.

Picture of mic connection

Step 6:

The lower portion of the A-pillar will now be removable. There is one retaining clip. Make sure you gently remove this portion so you don’t damage the retaining clip.

Picture of lower A-pillar retaining clip

Step 7:

Pop out side dash panel. I needed to do this so I could work with the existing cable I ran for the on-dash switch.

Picture of where to inset flathead screwdriver

Step 8:

Mark where you want to switch to go in. Before you can mark, you need to get an idea where you want to mount the switch and determine if there is something behind, like the retaining clip. As you can see in the picture, I had already mounted the on-dash mount there at first, but it fell off. It left sticky residue that I cleaned up after mounting the new switch.

Picture of where I marked the center for the new switch

Step 9:

Using a 3/4″ drill bit, drill the switch hole into the lower portion of the A-pillar. Here’s a picture of the switch and what it looked like after inserting it.

Picture of new switch


Picture of inserted switch


Step 10:

Wire up the new switch. For this I cut off the end of the on-dash switch to reuse the wiring. I used wire crimp terminals reinforced with electrical tape to connect the wiring to the switch.

Picture of new switch wired


Step 11:

Put everything back in reverse that you took it off. The only trouble I had was with the plastic Philips screw. Eventually got it and everything works perfectly.

Picture of mounted switch


Picture of mounted switch


One last note. Remember to put the fuse back in. Took me about 5 minutes to work out why the light bar wouldn’t work. Thought for sure I screwed something up.

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